Choosing Quality Carabiners for Mountaineering
Choosing a quality carabiner for mountaineering depends greatly on the type of activity you will be doing and is also largely a matter a personal taste. Let’s take a look at the different types of carabiners.
To Lock or Not to Lock?
Climbing carabiners are divided into two basic categories: locking and nonlocking. Locking carabiners are more secure, nonlocking ones are faster and easier to operate. Most climbers use a combination of both types for various functions such as only locking devices for climbing and nonlocking ones for transporting gear. This is a good practical principal. Others who are either fans of reckless abandon or austere safety regimens prefer only one type and use them for every aspect of climbing and hauling gear up the rock. It is important to note that all carabiners can wear out and should be inspected closely each and every time you plan a climbing excursion.
Differences in Types of Carabiners
While carabiners used for rescue work are made of steel, most mountaineering carabiners are made from aluminum for lightweight portability. Steel is stronger and can support a greater load weight, but most outdoorsmen prefer to pack as light as possible.
Nonlocking Types
Nonlocking carabiners are easy to use and are less expensive than the locking varieties. They can also open unexpectedly when bounced against a rock or when a fall causes sudden slack and vibration in the supporting line (known as gate flutter).
Nonlocking carabiners can have different types of gates. This is the moveable portion of the metal ring that folds inward to allow for ropes and other items to be attached to the ring with ease. The nonlocking gates are spring loaded so that they stay closed when not in use. Types of nonlocking gates are: bent, straight and wire.
Bent gates are used to fasten in equipment very quickly, often with only one hand. Straight gates are very common and help distribute the load weight more evenly throughout the carabiner. Wire gates are best used in cold climates since the wire does not freeze shut as easily and they are very lightweight.
Locking Types
Locking carabiners can either be self locking or twist locking. Self locking carabiners have a safety sleeve that must be manually pulled back in order to open the gate. Once the sleeve is let go, it automatically slides back in place over the gate to prevent inadvertent opening. These types of locks can be more expensive, wear out and are difficult to operate with only one hand but they also prevent a climber from forgetting to secure the gate.
Twist lock carabiners have a gate that must be screwed to the end of the ring to close the gap. This provides a very secure connection, but can be difficult and time consuming to operate.
Carabiner Shapes
Carabiners also come in a variety of different shapes. The type you choose is mostly a matter of personal preference, but different shapes are also better suited for larger weight loads.
D shaped carabiners are very strong since they transfer most of the weight bearing force onto the spine of the ring. They are also very popular and will cost a little more than common carabiners.
The offset carabiner is very similar to the D ring style, except the end with the gate opening is larger in order to accommodate gear more easily.
The oval carabiner is very common because its universal shape allows ropes to slide easily around and through the ring. One disadvantage to the oval ring is that the load is shared equally with the gate side. This significantly limits the amount of weight that can be safely supported by the carabiner.
HMS carabiners are the heaviest and the most expensive types of rings. They can support larger loads and are large enough to attach multiple lines and items on the same ring.
Carabiners are a necessary safety item and a great convenience when hauling gear up the rock when used properly. Each type of ring serves a different purpose and choosing a quality carabiner over a cheap one in always a good investment.
