Camping Gear & Equipment, Hiking Gear & Equipment, Trekking & More

As winter months approach, we can look forward to a beautiful blanket of crisp pristine snow and crystal blue skies overhead, but the beauty of freshly fallen snow can be deceptive. Heavy snow fall can mean plummeting temperatures, impassable roads and massive power failures for those who live in the Snow Belt.

Being prepared for a winter emergency is the best way to increase your chances of survival should the snow leave you stranded or without power.

What to Carry in Your Car’s Winter Survival Kit

• Space blankets are reflective tarps that fold up into compact bundles. They reflect your body heat back to you, helping to keep you warm when stranded.
• Several wooden matches in a waterproof container
  are always good to keep on hand. Throw in a metal can and use these items to melt snow for drinking water.
• A small radio and two flashlights should always be included. Pack away fresh, extra batteries or invest in hand crank powered models.
• Keep chocolate bars, unsalted nuts and several plastic bottles of water for emergency rations. A small cup, trail mix and hot cocoa mix are good additions if you have the room.
• An old cell phone can be used to call 911 even if there is no calling plan. You just need a charged battery or the means to charge it in an emergency.
• A small toolkit with common wrenches and sockets, pliers and a tire iron is good to keep in the car year round. Throw in a few extra fuses, a quart of oil, transmission fluid and power steering fluid to help get you to a garage if a leak occurs.
• Instant heat hand warmer are great for winter survival kits and are fairly inexpensive. They only provide heat for a few minutes, but can save fingers and toes from frost bite.
• Thick, dry socks, an extra hat and gloves are useful to change out wet garments in cold weather. You may even want to carry a full change of warm clothing and an extra heavy jacket.
• Candles and a pocket knife are good additions to your winter survival kit as are a few plastic garbage bags that will double as a dry ground covering in bad weather.
• A first aid kit, tire chains, jumper cables, extra gasoline, a tow chain, a collapsible shovel, two cans of compressed air for flat tires, a windshield scrapper and local maps are all good items to carry in your vehicle’s winter survival kit.

What to Pack for Your Winter Survival Kit at Home

• An alternate heat source is a must. Fire wood or kerosene heaters are common choices.
• Blankets are always welcome when the power goes off.
• A hand powered can opener and several cans of food you can eat cold should be included as well as several gallons of drinking water. Include five gallons of water for each person in your home.
• The standard radio, flashlight and batteries go into your home kit as well.
• A dry chemical fire extinguisher should be included in case of a fire.
• Matches are useful for lighting candles and relighting pilot lights on appliances, the water heater and the furnace once power is restored.
• Candles are essential for light once the power fails, but remember to use them with caution. Keep the open flames covered with glass globes if possible to prevent an accidental fire.

These items can make surviving the dangerous effects of a heavy snowfall possible. While they may not keep you comfortable and entertained, they will keep you alive in the event of a winter emergency.

If you are like me, and I think you are because we are both thinking about getting outside, then you will really enjoy seeing nature from a canoe or kayak. Having the cool clear water flowing by as your paddle subtly breaks the surface of the water to propel you to your next vision of beauty is a wonderful feeling. But, you need to know how to do it right to be safe.

Let me help you complete your trip with great memories by explaining a bit on how to pack and load your canoe to stay upright.

The gear you’ll need is most likely the same gear you would pack for a day hike, weekend or long trip in your pack. One luxury is being able to pack a bit more because you are not worrying about weight as much as you do when it is on your back.

A list should include details on the following: camping gear, cooking hardware and fuel, food items with a planned menu for each day, clothes, safety equipment, canoeing gear, and miscellaneous items.

However, don’t get too overboard (no pun intended), you need to re-check your list and make sure what you are packing IS what you need. Don’t over-pack or your canoe will become unstable.

After you get your gear together, start getting it in carry containers. Many canoeists keep their gear together such as food, clothing, first aid supplies, etc. If you do a lot of portaging, either walking yourself and gear around a large rapid or stopping for lunch or camp, you will need to carry your gear to shore. Having gear stored together can help make less trips back and forth with what you need.

Speaking of carry containers, you’ll want to make sure everything that needs to be dry stays dry. I like to store my gear for the worst- it gets submerged in the water. Use dry bags, dry cases and heavy duty garbage bags to store the gear that needs to stay dry.

Next, make a test load at home. Make sure you are loaded properly before you get out on the water. Test packing your gear will also get you thinking about how and where you’ll want to place items in the canoe. For example, consider the items you want within arms reach, such as water, sunscreen, bug repellent and a spare paddle. Also take the time during test packing to ensure you have the proper straps and ropes to tie down gear.

Weight distribution is one is a key concept in canoe loading. The same principles apply to loading a canoe as do filling a backpack. Put the heaviest items where they will have the least impact on your balance and maneuverability.

In canoeing, pack the heavy gear on the bottom and in the center. Medium-heavy items can be placed over heavier gear, and lighter items can be placed at the far ends of the canoe. This tactic will keep the canoe balanced and properly trimmed. Don’t forget to tie it down!

Enjoy your trip!

Choosing a quality carabiner for mountaineering depends greatly on the type of activity you will be doing and is also largely a matter a personal taste. Let’s take a look at the different types of carabiners.

To Lock or Not to Lock?

Climbing carabiners are divided into two basic categories: locking and nonlocking. Locking carabiners are more secure, nonlocking ones are faster and easier to operate. Most climbers use a combination of both types for various functions such as only locking devices for climbing and nonlocking ones for transporting gear. This is a good practical principal. Others who are either fans of reckless abandon or austere safety regimens prefer only one type and use them for every aspect of climbing and hauling gear up the rock. It is important to note that all carabiners can wear out and should be inspected closely each and every time you plan a climbing excursion.

Differences in Types of Carabiners

While carabiners used for rescue work are made of steel, most mountaineering carabiners are made from aluminum for lightweight portability. Steel is stronger and can support a greater load weight, but most outdoorsmen prefer to pack as light as possible.

Nonlocking Types

Nonlocking carabiners are easy to use and are less expensive than the locking varieties. They can also open unexpectedly when bounced against a rock or when a fall causes sudden slack and vibration in the supporting line (known as gate flutter).

Nonlocking carabiners can have different types of gates. This is the moveable portion of the metal ring that folds inward to allow for ropes and other items to be attached to the ring with ease. The nonlocking gates are spring loaded so that they stay closed when not in use. Types of nonlocking gates are: bent, straight and wire.

Bent gates are used to fasten in equipment very quickly, often with only one hand. Straight gates are very common and help distribute the load weight more evenly throughout the carabiner. Wire gates are best used in cold climates since the wire does not freeze shut as easily and they are very lightweight.

Locking Types

Locking carabiners can either be self locking or twist locking. Self locking carabiners have a safety sleeve that must be manually pulled back in order to open the gate. Once the sleeve is let go, it automatically slides back in place over the gate to prevent inadvertent opening. These types of locks can be more expensive, wear out and are difficult to operate with only one hand but they also prevent a climber from forgetting to secure the gate.

Twist lock carabiners have a gate that must be screwed to the end of the ring to close the gap. This provides a very secure connection, but can be difficult and time consuming to operate.

Carabiner Shapes

Carabiners also come in a variety of different shapes. The type you choose is mostly a matter of personal preference, but different shapes are also better suited for larger weight loads.

D shaped carabiners are very strong since they transfer most of the weight bearing force onto the spine of the ring. They are also very popular and will cost a little more than common carabiners.

The offset carabiner is very similar to the D ring style, except the end with the gate opening is larger in order to accommodate gear more easily.

The oval carabiner is very common because its universal shape allows ropes to slide easily around and through the ring. One disadvantage to the oval ring is that the load is shared equally with the gate side. This significantly limits the amount of weight that can be safely supported by the carabiner.

HMS carabiners are the heaviest and the most expensive types of rings. They can support larger loads and are large enough to attach multiple lines and items on the same ring.

Carabiners are a necessary safety item and a great convenience when hauling gear up the rock when used properly. Each type of ring serves a different purpose and choosing a quality carabiner over a cheap one in always a good investment.

Caring for your feet is one of the most important parts of any hiking or backpacking trip. Cold, wet or sore feet can make your trip miserable if not bring it to a screeching halt. Choosing new hiking boots can be an exciting experience, but it can also be frustrating, especially if you are unsure of what to buy or you are stuck with a pushy salesperson.

Knowing a few guidelines before buying that new pair of boots cannot only help you get a perfect pair of boots, it can save you money.

The Rules of Hiking Boots

1. Looks are deceiving. That ugly pair of boots may be the most comfortable, heavenly footwear your feet will ever know. Shop for comfort, not fashion; looks are useless on the trail.

2. Ignore the salesperson, unless you need them to get another size boot. They work on commission and most will try to sell you the most expensive boots they think you can afford.

3. Ask other hikers and backpackers what boots they prefer if you are starting out. Quality companies like Merrell or Danner consistently produce boots that are comfortable on the trail.

4. Never wear new boots on the trail. They must be broken in for a minimum of 20 hours before they are trail worthy. This can be done around the house, while running errands or while walking on level ground.

5. Know what kind of hiking you will be doing before deciding on a type of boot. Day hikers need lightweight, breathable boots, backpackers need mid-weight boots with moderate support and mountaineers need a durable, fully supportive boot.

6. Don’t pay for features you won’t need. If you only hike in the summer on dry terrain, you do not need an http://www.nwbackpack.com/catalog/. Opt for more comfort and breathability for your buck instead of trying to get a well rounded boot that will cost you more.

7. If there is a chance your feet will get wet, invest in a weather resistant, waterproof boot or a waterproof liner. Wet feet can quickly become sore feet, even in mild weather.

Fitting Your Boots

Getting a proper fit is everything in a pair of hiking boots. These guidelines can help you get a great fit before forking out your hard earned cash for a pair of boots that make you miserable after an hour on the trail.

*Always try on new boots with your hiking socks, never use regular sports socks or worse yet, no socks at all to fit your boots. Also, try on both boots, not just one.

*Choose a boot height that provides enough support. If you have weak ankles or will be on rocky terrain high support is best.

*Check boots thoroughly for any bumps in the lining, uncomfortable seams, or places that rub over bony prominences. These small areas of discomfort can cause blisters on the trail. If necessary, take off your socks so you can feel the lining against bare skin to check for problems.

*With the laces undone, slide your toes as far forward in the boot as possible. You should be able to insert one finger between your heel and the back of the boot. Any more or any less is not a good fit.

* Lace it up right. Laces should be tight across your toes and ankles and slightly looser across the arch of your foot in order to provide the best fit and support.

Try it out before taking it home. Walk, flex your feet and stand on uneven surfaces with the boot laced up before you buy it.

One final tip: be sure to ask what the return policy is for each boot you try on. Many name brand boot companies will allow you to exchange the boots for a different type if they are uncomfortable once you get them on the trail.

These rules and guidelines can help you find that perfect pair of boots without breaking your budget. Well fitting boots make for happy feet on the trail!